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冒頭写真のうち、左が「いいシャツ」の典型。その秘訣は襟と身頃を繋ぐ「台襟」の形にある。いいシャツの台襟は、端に向かうにつれて上向きにカーブしているのがわかるだろう。また、襟との縫合部も微妙に曲線を描いている。これがどういう効果をもたらすのか？ 解説の前に、「よくないシャツ」との比較をしてみよう。
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「よくないシャツ」は台襟が直線的。上辺・下辺ともに、ほとんどカーブが見られない。この差が着た時の美しさに大きく関係してくる。では、実際に着用して比較してみよう。
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「いいシャツ」を着用したところがこちら。普通、シャツを着ると首の後ろから前に向かって襟が下がる形になるが、台襟がカーブしたシャツは首元で襟がグッと持ち上がる形になる。これによって、襟周りがシャキッと立体的に見えるのだ。ネクタイを締めたときも、ノットが自然と上に向き、胸元をたくましく見せてくれる。
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大して「よくないシャツ」の場合、台襟が直線なので襟元が下がってしまう。すると全体的に襟がペタっと寝た印象に見えてしまうのだ。同じネクタイを締めても、「いいシャツ」とは立体感が歴然と違う。
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裾部分の処理はシャツ作りの美学が表れるポイント。通常、裾部分はほつれ防止のため生地の端を巻いて仕上げるが、高級なシャツほど巻きが細く、縫製の処理も繊細。仕上げが粗いものは肌に当たってゴロつきの原因にもなるため、着心地にも関係してくる。
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シャツの顔である襟のステッチにも注目したい。一般的に、ピッチが均一で細かいものほど高級とされる。
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ボタンをつける際に、しっかり“根巻き”が行われているものは、それだけ手間がかかっている証拠となる。
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