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「巻き始めは首元から離れた位置で」
「ほとんどの人が首元の近くで大剣を小剣に巻きつけていると思いますが、たとえば鏡のないところでネクタイを締める場合、それだと自分の目で直接ノットの形を確認できません。だから私はいつも首元から離れた位置で巻き始めます。これなら締め上げまでの距離が長くなるため、その後の微修正も楽ですよ」
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「指で窪みを作り、ディンプルを形成します」
「続いて大剣を下ろしきる前に結び目の真ん中部分に窪みを作ります。その窪みに指を差し入れながら大剣を下に引いていくと深いディプルができます」
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「上・左・右の3点をつまみ、ノットをコンパクトに」
「写真のように上&左右の3点を指で強く押さえながら大剣を下ろしきります。こうすることでノットがキュッとコンパクトになり、ディンプルも崩れにくくなります」
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「台襟に吸い付くようにノットを締めあげます」
「ノットの上からシャツの第一ボタンが見えるとだらしなく見えてしまいます。ノットがシャツの台襟にぴたりと吸い付く位置まで小剣をきちんとおろしましょう」
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int(150)
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「逆三角形の美しいノットを形成するには、仕上げに下部の左右をつまんでギュッと絞るのがコツ」
「ノットの形は台形タイプと、逆三角形タイプの大きくふた通りがあります。よりコンパクトなノットを築きたい場合、後者をイメージした方がいいでしょう。これは大剣を締め上げる際、ノットの下部を左右から強くつまみ、人差し指で上から押さえるようにするのがコツ。タブカラーやピンホールカラーなど襟の開きが小さいシャツの場合は、とくにこういう逆三角形のノットのほうが収まりがいいです」
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「ベストサイズでノットが結べていると、大剣と小剣の長さが揃います」
「ノットの大きさが不格好な人は、大剣を適切な太さのところで巻けていないことが多いものです。今のタイは生地に関わらず、正しくプレーンノットで結べばベルトのバックルあたりで大剣と小剣の長さが揃うようにできています。もっとも体型によりタイが余ったり短くなったりすることもあります。その場合は大剣をバックルあたりに来る位置で保ちつつ、ノットの大きさを調整するといいでしょう。そして小剣が長くなったらパンツの中にしまうとスマートです」
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