A full silhouette is on the cutting edge of what’s in style
[M.E.] This edition’s theme is the cotton spring coat. The lineup of denim and military items comprise a major category, in terms of vintage clothing, so the choice of Polo Ralph Lauren was a bit outside the norm here.
[Nishiguchi] If one were to speak of vintage spring coats, Burberry and Aquascutum are of course the representative brands. However, to speak in terms of “what I absolutely want to wear now”, this is what I really recommend.
[M.E.] Indeed. In what way do you get that feeling of “nowness” here?
[Nishiguchi] I have to admit, it’s the silhouette. This item is vintage from the 90’s but the fact that it was designed in a big silhouette that was at the hight of its popularity during this time, is the distinguishing characteristic here. While it uses authentic trench coat details, such as the back of collar reinforcement stitching and belt D rings, the fact that at the same time it deeply reflects the character of its era is a typically emblematic aspect of Polo Ralph Lauren.
[M.E.] So the charm of it as a universal product coexists with its fashion sensibility, then.
[Nishiguchi] That’s what it is. Moreover, that 90’s mood is now fresh, once again. The full body width and sleeve, and the hem that falls right above your feet, among other details, all make for a terribly charming balance that is both classic and masculine.
[M.E.] So although the design is pretty clunky, it at the same time has a sense of lightness since the fabric is ultra-lightweight.
[Nishiguchi] You could go as far as to say that that is a charm lacking in an English trench coat. This is the high density plain-weave cotton called, “typewriter cloth”. While it’s thin and light, it also possesses a fair degree of tooth to the hand-feel. The drape is extremely beautiful and it’s a material that is really best matched with generous silhouettes.
[M.E.] I think the fact that it doesn’t look overbearing at all, makes it perfect for the season we’re in right now.
[Nishiguchi] That’s exactly right. Then, in terms of the make, the fact that it’s using an unlined sleeve is also noteworthy.
[M.E.] This also fits right into our love of vintage! Since most current raglan sleeves are made with 2 layers of fabric. In the old days, Burberry used a single layer sleeve, thus providing another reason for the Polo example to be popular.
[Nishiguchi] Yes, exactly. Since it draws a gracefully sloping roundness to the shoulder line, a single layer sleeve is really the best.
[M.E.] By the way, why is it that you pretty much can’t find single layer raglan coats among what’s currently available on market? Is it so much more difficult to make than a two layer one?
[Nishiguchi] No, I don’t think it’s that. This is nothing more than my conjecture, but I think it’s probably related to the industry’s slimming down of silhouettes. The truth is, in the case of a single layer sleeve, while on one hand the shoulder-line becomes beautiful, it also has the effect of making it easy for cloth to gather around the armpit. As for the era when coat silhouettes were generously sized, this was no problem at all, but when the body and sleeves of garments started getting slimmed down, the fabric gathering would stick out. Consequently, I think that the industry switched to using a two-layer sleeve that comes out much more sharply finished. In recent years, a more generous fit has become fashionable again in the mainstream. However, I think its reasonable to assert that raglan sleeve construction is stuck bearing the vestiges of slim fit’s golden era.
[M.E.] So those are the circumstances, I see. That solves it! All things considered, Ralph Lauren’s construction is really top-notch. I tend to pick items based upon the sort of point of view that for vintage one should go to a specialist, but this really moves me to realize the fact that there are still masterpieces outside the realm of specialty shops.
[Nishiguchi] Mr. Ralph Lauren, aside from being known as a wild enthusiast of vintage clothing, beyond having full knowledge of what it is to be an original brand, is a genius in his capability to negotiate the combinations of colors, materials and design elements that are borrowed. Lately “mix style”, combining multinational tastes and mixes vintage items with tailoring, has been gaining a lot of steam, but it is Mr. Ralph Lauren who really stands as its pioneer.A masterpiece to set your sights on now before it blows up in popularity.
A full silhouette is at the center of what’s “now”
[M.E.] With that, I think I could ask you a little about how how you’d style this. A trench coat is an item you can wear both casually and for dress, but I’m struggling to see how to wear it solely in an all-around kind of way…
[Nishiguchi] Exactly as you said, it’s not an item of clothing that you pick to match with other clothes. You can coordinate it as I am today (in the column below) wearing a no-tie suit style, and it even looks great paired with jeans and worn casually. However, these days, I’m thinking I really want to try wearing it in a super-normal business style. The sort of attire like a solid grey or navy single breasted suit paired with a tie, and on the feet a pair of lace-up oxfords.
[M.E.] That is a bit surprising. Wouldn’t pairing the trench coat with with a literal business style make it look a bit old-hat.
[Nishiguchi] Perhaps not so long ago, it would have felt like that. However, among all the various ways that the “classic style” changes within a given time period, no matter how much importance has been placed on the idea of putting a twist on the “normal” mode of dress, those twisted garments are starting to look rather normal, now more than ever. It is absolutely because we are in that state of affairs, that I want to come back to the orthodox once again here. Consequently, business suits, tying a tie, dress shoes, and a trench coat, as it were, are what make up this ultimate basic style that is absolutely the most attractive today.
[M.E.] Doesn’t it seem like the fashion cycle has come full circle and basic style is fresh again? As a trend from here on out, I certainly would like to hold onto this opinion. And with that, lastly, could we have you teach us the key points to be careful of when buying a spring coat from a vintage shop?
[Nishiguchi] In the case of this type of belted coat, since it’s common to find examples where the belt is often broken or missing, it’s a good idea to check on this aspect at the time of purchase. Also its seldom that the chin flap at the base of the neck comes attached. After that, if the belt buckle is covered in leather please check the condition and for any abraded or damaged areas. Coats made of thin fabric are prone to cuts and holes, however, as long as the damaged area doesn’t stand out too much, its fine to chalk it up to “patina”. To tell the truth, this coat I have has a small hole in the body area, but I don’t pay it any mind and love wearing it nonetheless. Simply due to the fact that compared to the trenches of brands such as Burberry or Aquascutum, this one is comparatively not as popular, there are not a huge number of prime examples out there. However, if you really look, I think you could find one relatively easily. These days, you can also still get your hands on one of these in good condition for an reasonable price. Have patience, and happy hunting.
