今、シカゴがニューヨークやロサンゼルスよりも「アメリカっぽい」理由

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アメリカ・シカゴ案内／後編

建築とアートの街、シカゴは通年でも見どころに溢れている。ある意味、ニューヨークやロサンゼルスよりも「アメリカっぽい」何かを、真芯でジャストミートしていて、それらを続々と味わえる。そこがシカゴならではの面白さだ。

前回、シカゴがモダン都市の原型となったと書いたが、その理由は三つある。ひとつは現在のサウス・ラサール通り135番地の角に1884年に完成したホーム・インシュアランス・ビルディングが、世界で初めて鉄骨構造をもつ、石造りよりもはるかに軽量な高層建築であったこと。ふたつ目はその後、ルイス・サリヴァンらに代表されるシカゴ派の建築家によって、高層オフィス建築がこの街で隆盛をきわめたこと。そしてみっつ目は、第二次世界大戦前夜のナチス・ドイツの影響でミース・ファン・デル・ローエやモホリ・ナジ・ラズロらバウハウスの指導者たちが、この街に移ってきたこと。とくにミース・ファン・デル・ローエは、イリノイ工科大学や湖畔のレジデンス建築、IBMビルディングなどに足跡を残した。

シカゴの建築史を辿るのに、欠かせない住所は111 East Wacker Drive、ワン・イリノイ・センター・ビルディング内にある「シカゴ・アーキテクチャー・センター（CAC）」だ。ミース・ファン・デル・ローエが設計した建物に2018年夏からオープンしたこの施設は、非営利団体による運営で、シカゴ市街の発達をインタラクティブな模型などを用いながら、歴史的に追うことができる。歴史といってもそれは近未来のことまで多分に含まれ、2020年以降に開館が予定される「バラク・オバマ・プレジデンシャル・センター」についても紹介されている。オバマ元大統領に関する資料や図書館が入るというこの施設は、湖畔のジャクソン・パーク内に開設され、タイガー・ウッズとシカゴ大学の設計によるミニゴルフのコースも作られるとか。

他にも、ホーム・インシュアランス・ビルディングから現段階で世界一高い建造物であるブルジュ・ハリファに至るスケールモデル、さらには今後、中近東諸国で予定される超高層ビルの計画まで、様々な角度からスカイスクレイパーを取り上げている。

もうひとつCACの重要なアクティヴィティは、建物の目の前のシカゴ川の河岸から出発するリバー・クルーズだ。これは25年以上もCACによって催行されているシカゴの主要な建築を観覧するためのクルーズ船で、「シカゴズ・ファースト・レディ」もしくは「シカゴズ・リトル・レディ」というボートでシカゴ川を遡行する。