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【Point 1】肩から上襟がしっかり“ノボって”いる
特にイタリアスーツにおいて最も重要視されるのが肩〜襟のノボリ。袖山から肩にかけてなだらかに体に沿いつつ、それが上襟と自然に繋がって首に吸い付くようにフィットすることを“襟がノボる”と表現する。美観を大きく左右するだけでなく、着心地も軽くなるのが特徴だ。
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string(29) "c_fashon_200615_suit_pg02.jpg"
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int(282325)
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["alt"]=>
string(30) "ノボっていないスーツ"
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string(2) "21"
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襟が“ノボって”いないのはこんなスーツ
これは悪い例。ショルダーラインが硬直的なうえ体に沿っておらず、上襟が首から浮いてしまっている。いくら高級生地を使用していても、このような仕立てではどこかだらしない印象になってしまうものだ。着心地も窮屈で重苦しいものになる。
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【Point 2】袖が前方へカーブしている
人間の腕は横から見ると弓なりにカーブしているものだが、それに沿って袖が曲げられているのもいい仕立ての証。腕を下ろしているときに無駄なシワが入らず、美しい立ち姿になるだけでなく、歩いているときなど動きの中でも洗練された印象に映る。
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安価なスーツは袖が直線的
人体に沿って作られていない袖は、このようにほぼ直線になっている。ジャストサイズでも無駄なシワが入り、ダボっとした印象に。
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string(54) "ラペルのエッジが“ぷっくり”している"
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【Point 3】ラペルのエッジが“ぷっくり”している
スーツの顔となるのがラペルだが、よく言われるロールの立体感などに加えてエッジの仕立ても重要。上質なものはエッジがぷっくりと膨らんだようになっている。これによって胸周りの立体感が増し、抑揚のある表情につながるのだ。
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量産スーツのラペルはエッジも平面的
安いスーツのラペルがこちら。カッターで切ったようにエッジが直線的で、のっぺりと平たく抑揚に欠ける。ロールがしっかり立体的でも、こういう細かな作りが高級感の差になってくる。
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【Point 4】フラワーホールが美しい
スーツ好きな人ほど無意識に注目しているのがフラワーホール。職人の美意識が表れるディテールだ。いいフラワーホールは縫い目が細かく、立体的な山になっていて、ホールに歪みのないもの。写真はその好例だ。ちなみにこちらは手縫いによるもの。ビスポークなど最高級スーツは多くが手縫いでフラワーホールを仕上げている。
"
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["alt"]=>
string(15) "ミシン縫い"
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string(2) "21"
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ミシン縫い=粗悪というわけではないが……
ミシンでも前述の条件を満たした美しいフラワーホールを仕上げることはできるが、このように縫い目が粗く、平べったいものは安っぽい印象。
"
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["alt"]=>
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手縫いにも美しくないフラワーホールが
こちらはハンドメイドでも粗悪と評価されるべきフラワーホール。縫い目が荒く、ホールも歪んでいる。明らかに雑な仕事だ。あらゆる箇所に共通するが、手縫い=上質というわけではないので注意。
"
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}