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ビスポーク由来のフル毛芯
胸周りの立体感を形作る上で欠かせないのが芯地。“サルトリア仕立て”ではハリコシに優れる馬の尻尾の毛をふんだんに用いた芯地を採用し、これを身頃全体に仕込むフル毛芯仕様で仕立てている。
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着心地を高めるキュプラ裏地
裏地は高級素材であるキュプラを採用。すべりがよいため着用時のゴワつきを解消するほか、吸水放湿性に優れているためムレにくいという利点も備える。蒸し暑い日本の夏も快適だ。
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手間のかかるお台場仕立て
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袖はもちろん本開き&本切羽
本格スーツの代名詞的ディテールのひとつ。袖のボタンを実際に留め外しできる意匠だ。イタリアの洒落者はあえて袖ボタンを外して、高級仕立てであることをアピールすることも多い。
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随所に手縫い風ステッチが
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ボタン素材も本格派
プラスチックではなく、水牛の角から削り出した高級ボタンを使用。小さいパーツだが意外と目立ち、スーツの高級感を後押ししてくれる。
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内側にもフィット感を高める工夫が
パンツの内側には、滑り止め用のテープがぐるりと配されている。ウエストがずり落ちるのを防ぎ、パンツのフィット感を高める工夫だ。ちなみにこちらはサスペンダーボタン付き。
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穿き心地をアップさせるVスリット
ウエスト背面の中心部はV字型に切れ込みを入れて仕立てている。これによりウエストバンドが伸縮し、腰周りのフィット感が高まるというわけだ。このような細部までこだわっているのも本格仕様ゆえ。
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きちんと軽快を突き詰めた
“ライトコンフォート仕立て”
こちらは軽さを重視した“ライトコンフォート仕立て”。肩パッドは1㎜厚と極限まで薄くし、特殊な紡績によって軽量化した芯地を肩~胸部分にのみ使用。さらに襟芯も軽く柔らかなものにするなど、見えない部分を徹底的に軽快化している。とはいえテーラーメイドらしい構築感はしっかり残し、軽くてもラフに見えないバランスを追求。生地は英国E.トーマスのウールシルク。スーツ9万円+ライトコンフォート仕立てオプション料金3000円、シャツ1万5000円〈以上オーダー価格〉、タイ6500円、チーフ1500円/以上麻布テーラー(Y&Mプレスルーム)
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清涼感を格段に高めた
“エアコンフォート仕立て”
過酷な日本の夏に向けに開発されたのが “エアコンフォート仕立て”。腰から下を芯なし仕立てにしたハーフ毛芯仕様に加え、通気性の高い肩パッドやメッシュ状の副資材を用いることで、衣服内の熱気を外に逃がしやすくしている。また、ジャケットの裏地とパンツの膝裏地には、吸水速乾性に優れたメッシュ素材を採用し、不快なベタつきを軽減している。生地はレダの機能素材「レダ アクティブ」。スーツ7万円+エアコンフォート仕立てオプション料金5000円、シャツ1万3500円〈以上オーダー価格〉、タイ6500円/以上麻布テーラー(Y&Mプレスルーム) チーフ〈スタイリスト私物〉
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程よい寛ぎ感のある
“エアライト仕立て”
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