印象はどう変わる?「シャツの襟型の違い」を覚えておこう

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【ワイド】襟羽根が100~120度くらいの程よい開きですっきり見えるのが特徴。

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【セミワイド】レギュラーカラーとワイドカラーの中間くらいの開き具合(約90度)。

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【レギュラー】一番スタンダードな襟の形。タイドアップがおすすめ。

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【ボタンダウン】襟の先端がボタンで留まったタイプ。少しカジュアルな印象になり、ノータイでも着やすい襟型。

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【カッタウェイ】襟の開きが180°以上あるもの。ノータイで着るとき襟がバランスよく決まる。

" } [5]=> array(2) { ["entry_gallery_image"]=> array(24) { ["ID"]=> int(1155001) ["id"]=> int(1155001) ["title"]=> string(38) "c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg06_horizontal" ["filename"]=> string(42) "c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg06_horizontal.jpg" ["filesize"]=> int(35072) ["url"]=> string(95) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg06_horizontal.jpg" ["link"]=> string(78) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/archives/1152643/c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg06_horizontal" ["alt"]=> string(18) "ホリゾンタル" ["author"]=> string(2) "21" ["description"]=> string(0) "" ["caption"]=> string(0) "" ["name"]=> string(38) "c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg06_horizontal" ["status"]=> string(7) "inherit" ["uploaded_to"]=> int(1152643) ["date"]=> string(19) "2020-05-25 00:41:25" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2020-05-25 00:43:23" ["menu_order"]=> int(0) ["mime_type"]=> string(10) "image/jpeg" ["type"]=> string(5) "image" ["subtype"]=> string(4) "jpeg" ["icon"]=> string(62) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-includes/images/media/default.png" ["width"]=> int(264) ["height"]=> int(300) ["sizes"]=> array(18) { ["thumbnail"]=> string(103) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg06_horizontal-150x150.jpg" ["thumbnail-width"]=> int(150) ["thumbnail-height"]=> int(150) ["medium"]=> string(103) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg06_horizontal-264x300.jpg" ["medium-width"]=> int(264) ["medium-height"]=> int(300) ["medium_large"]=> string(95) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg06_horizontal.jpg" ["medium_large-width"]=> int(264) ["medium_large-height"]=> int(300) ["large"]=> string(95) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg06_horizontal.jpg" ["large-width"]=> int(264) ["large-height"]=> int(300) ["1536x1536"]=> string(95) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg06_horizontal.jpg" ["1536x1536-width"]=> int(264) ["1536x1536-height"]=> int(300) ["2048x2048"]=> string(95) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg06_horizontal.jpg" ["2048x2048-width"]=> int(264) ["2048x2048-height"]=> int(300) } } ["entry_gallery_description"]=> string(121) "

【ホリゾンタル】英語で「水平線」意の通り、ほぼ水平に開いた襟型。

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【ラウンド】その名の通り襟羽根の先に丸みをつけた襟型。柔らかな印象になる。

" } [7]=> array(2) { ["entry_gallery_image"]=> array(24) { ["ID"]=> int(1155003) ["id"]=> int(1155003) ["title"]=> string(35) "c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg08_pinhole" ["filename"]=> string(39) "c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg08_pinhole.jpg" ["filesize"]=> int(34125) ["url"]=> string(92) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg08_pinhole.jpg" ["link"]=> string(75) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/archives/1152643/c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg08_pinhole" ["alt"]=> string(15) "ピンホール" ["author"]=> string(2) "21" ["description"]=> string(0) "" ["caption"]=> string(0) "" ["name"]=> string(35) "c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg08_pinhole" ["status"]=> string(7) "inherit" ["uploaded_to"]=> int(1152643) ["date"]=> string(19) "2020-05-25 00:41:26" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2020-05-25 00:44:05" ["menu_order"]=> int(0) ["mime_type"]=> string(10) "image/jpeg" ["type"]=> string(5) "image" ["subtype"]=> string(4) "jpeg" ["icon"]=> string(62) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-includes/images/media/default.png" ["width"]=> int(264) ["height"]=> int(300) ["sizes"]=> array(18) { ["thumbnail"]=> string(100) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg08_pinhole-150x150.jpg" ["thumbnail-width"]=> int(150) ["thumbnail-height"]=> int(150) ["medium"]=> string(100) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg08_pinhole-264x300.jpg" ["medium-width"]=> int(264) ["medium-height"]=> int(300) ["medium_large"]=> string(92) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg08_pinhole.jpg" ["medium_large-width"]=> int(264) ["medium_large-height"]=> int(300) ["large"]=> string(92) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg08_pinhole.jpg" ["large-width"]=> int(264) ["large-height"]=> int(300) ["1536x1536"]=> string(92) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg08_pinhole.jpg" ["1536x1536-width"]=> int(264) ["1536x1536-height"]=> int(300) ["2048x2048"]=> string(92) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg08_pinhole.jpg" ["2048x2048-width"]=> int(264) ["2048x2048-height"]=> int(300) } } ["entry_gallery_description"]=> string(280) "

【ピンホール】襟先の中ほどに「アイレット」と呼ばれる穴が開いていて、そこにピンを通すタイプ。このピン部分がネクタイのノットを持ち上げると、立体的でクラシックな印象になる。

" } [8]=> array(2) { ["entry_gallery_image"]=> array(24) { ["ID"]=> int(1155004) ["id"]=> int(1155004) ["title"]=> string(31) "c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg09_tab" ["filename"]=> string(35) "c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg09_tab.jpg" ["filesize"]=> int(28353) ["url"]=> string(88) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg09_tab.jpg" ["link"]=> string(71) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/archives/1152643/c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg09_tab" ["alt"]=> string(6) "タブ" ["author"]=> string(2) "21" ["description"]=> string(0) "" ["caption"]=> string(0) "" ["name"]=> string(31) "c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg09_tab" ["status"]=> string(7) "inherit" ["uploaded_to"]=> int(1152643) ["date"]=> string(19) "2020-05-25 00:41:27" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2020-05-25 00:44:20" ["menu_order"]=> int(0) ["mime_type"]=> string(10) "image/jpeg" ["type"]=> string(5) "image" ["subtype"]=> string(4) "jpeg" ["icon"]=> string(62) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-includes/images/media/default.png" ["width"]=> int(264) ["height"]=> int(300) ["sizes"]=> array(18) { ["thumbnail"]=> string(96) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg09_tab-150x150.jpg" ["thumbnail-width"]=> int(150) ["thumbnail-height"]=> int(150) ["medium"]=> string(96) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg09_tab-264x300.jpg" ["medium-width"]=> int(264) ["medium-height"]=> int(300) ["medium_large"]=> string(88) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg09_tab.jpg" ["medium_large-width"]=> int(264) ["medium_large-height"]=> int(300) ["large"]=> string(88) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg09_tab.jpg" ["large-width"]=> int(264) ["large-height"]=> int(300) ["1536x1536"]=> string(88) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg09_tab.jpg" ["1536x1536-width"]=> int(264) ["1536x1536-height"]=> int(300) ["2048x2048"]=> string(88) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/c_fashon_200525_shirt1_pg09_tab.jpg" ["2048x2048-width"]=> int(264) ["2048x2048-height"]=> int(300) } } ["entry_gallery_description"]=> string(220) "

【タブ】左右の襟に先端を結ぶ紐(タブ)が付いたデザイン。これによりピンホール同様にノットがキュッと持ち上がり、かっちりした印象に。

" } }

生地やシルエットだけでなく、ディテールのバリエーションも多彩に選べるシャツオーダー。注文時に戸惑わないよう、一般的な意匠を総ざらいしておこう。仕上がりをイメージしながら事前にある程度仕様を決めておくとスムーズだ。

シャツの襟型

DOIHOKOSHO / 土井縫工所

約70年の歴史をもつシャツファクトリーが展開するオーダーブランド。日本人に合わせた抜群のフィット感と、細部まで本格仕立てにこだわった作りに定評がある。WEBオーダーを基本としているが、ゲージサンプルや生地見本の貸し出しといったサービスもあり、初回オーダー時も安心。納期約2週間〜。1万円~(土井縫工所)

【オーダー時に覚えておきたい、シャツのディティールのおさらい講座 #1】

シャツの襟型

既製シャツでもお馴染みのセミワイドやワイドに加え、襟の開き方のバリエーションを細かく選べるのがオーダーならでは。

レギュラーとセミワイドは基本的にタイドアップ用、カッタウェイはノータイ用で、ワイド、ホリゾンタルは兼用的な位置付けだ。襟を金属の棒で止めるピンホールなど既製には珍しい襟型も。

<p><strong>【ワイド】</strong>襟羽根が100~120度くらいの程よい開きですっきり見えるのが特徴。</p>

【ワイド】襟羽根が100~120度くらいの程よい開きですっきり見えるのが特徴。

<p><strong>【セミワイド】</strong>レギュラーカラーとワイドカラーの中間くらいの開き具合(約90度)。</p>

【セミワイド】レギュラーカラーとワイドカラーの中間くらいの開き具合(約90度)。

<p><strong>【レギュラー】</strong>一番スタンダードな襟の形。タイドアップがおすすめ。</p>

【レギュラー】一番スタンダードな襟の形。タイドアップがおすすめ。

<p><strong>【ボタンダウン】</strong>襟の先端がボタンで留まったタイプ。少しカジュアルな印象になり、ノータイでも着やすい襟型。</p>

【ボタンダウン】襟の先端がボタンで留まったタイプ。少しカジュアルな印象になり、ノータイでも着やすい襟型。

<p><strong>【カッタウェイ】</strong>襟の開きが180°以上あるもの。ノータイで着るとき襟がバランスよく決まる。</p>

【カッタウェイ】襟の開きが180°以上あるもの。ノータイで着るとき襟がバランスよく決まる。

<p><strong>【ホリゾンタル】</strong>英語で「水平線」意の通り、ほぼ水平に開いた襟型。</p>

【ホリゾンタル】英語で「水平線」意の通り、ほぼ水平に開いた襟型。

<p><strong>【ラウンド】</strong>その名の通り襟羽根の先に丸みをつけた襟型。柔らかな印象になる。</p>

【ラウンド】その名の通り襟羽根の先に丸みをつけた襟型。柔らかな印象になる。

<p><strong>【ピンホール】</strong>襟先の中ほどに「アイレット」と呼ばれる穴が開いていて、そこにピンを通すタイプ。このピン部分がネクタイのノットを持ち上げると、立体的でクラシックな印象になる。</p>

【ピンホール】襟先の中ほどに「アイレット」と呼ばれる穴が開いていて、そこにピンを通すタイプ。このピン部分がネクタイのノットを持ち上げると、立体的でクラシックな印象になる。

<p><strong>【タブ】</strong>左右の襟に先端を結ぶ紐(タブ)が付いたデザイン。これによりピンホール同様にノットがキュッと持ち上がり、かっちりした印象に。</p>

【タブ】左右の襟に先端を結ぶ紐(タブ)が付いたデザイン。これによりピンホール同様にノットがキュッと持ち上がり、かっちりした印象に。

2024

VOL.342

Autumn

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