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イタリアでコーヒーを注文すると、間違いなくエスプレッソが出てくる。深煎り豆を極細挽きした粉を蒸気圧で瞬時に抽出することから、イタリア語で急速を意味するespressoと名付けれた。

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1933年にアルフォンソ・ビアレッティによって発明された初代エスプレッソメーカー（モカ）。八角形のボディはアルミ製、取っ手はベークライト製だった。第二次世界大戦直後までは、職人たちがひとつずつ製作していたそう。
photo:Bialetti

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イスラム諸国で成熟したコーヒー文化が、ヨーロッパ圏へと伝わったのは17世紀初頭とみられている。18世紀にはイタリアでもヴェネツィアの『カフェ・フローリアン』、ローマの『カフェ・グレコ』など、現存する老舗カフェが開業した。ところが1806年ナポレオンが英国に打撃を与えるべく配下の国々に「大陸封鎖令」を発令。すると欧州圏外からの輸入に依存していたコーヒー豆の流通は激減。価格高騰はイタリアも含む各国のカフェを次々と廃業に追い込んた。そうしたなか、前述のカフェ・グレコの店主が妙案を思いつく。カップのサイズを1/3まで小さくし、注ぐ量を減らして価格を抑えたのだ。以来、小さなカップで味わうスタイルは次第に定着していった。

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店で味わうコーヒーに話を戻せば、イタリア人が“エスプレッソの聖地”として真っ先に名を挙げるのは、ずばり「ナポリ」。イタリアにおける一般的な量よりさらに少なめに抽出し、たっぷりの砂糖を加えるのが当地風。甘く濃厚なテイストはビターチョコレートに喩えられる。

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ナポリのカフェに寄ったら、濃厚なエスプレッソと一緒にお菓子も味わいたいもの。パイ生地にリコッタチーズを詰めた「スフォリアテッラ」、スポンジ生地にたっぷりのラム酒を染み込ませた「ババ」など、ナポリ伝統の味を試してみよう。

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ナポリのエスプレッソは、熱湯で温めておいたカップに注ぐのが風習。また多くのバールは自家製の甘いクリーム「クレマ・デッラ・ノンナ（エスプレッソと砂糖を混ぜたもの）」を別に用意している。砂糖の代わりにひと匙加えてみるのも◎。

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19世紀末のナポリ貴族たちは、賭け事に勝ったり、女性を同伴するなどして上機嫌でカフェを訪れると、店内の見知らぬ客にもコーヒーを振る舞うことがあったようだ。やがてその風習から派生して、経済的余裕のあるお客が、自分が飲んだ分に加えてもう1 杯分の代金を置いて行くようになった。受け取った店はsospeso＝保留しておいたお金を使って、生活に困窮した人がやってくると無料で1杯のエスプレッソを提供したのがはじまり。店内にある巨大エスプレッソメーカー（モカ）は「カフェ・ソスペーゾ」のシンボル。

" } }