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CANCLINI / カンクリーニ
1925年創業。様々なラグジュアリーブランドに生地を提供していることで知られる。イタリアらしいしなやかな肌触りと、時代性を加味した色柄のラインナップが魅力。
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『リネンスーツと相性抜群なパナマ織りが気になります』
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「クラシカルな柄と涼やかなパナマ織りが今の気分です。リネンスーツと合わせると最高に格好良さそう。ラウンドカラーのクレリックで仕立てたいですね」。同生地でのオーダー価格2万3000円〜/シップス(シップス 銀座店)
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1920年創業。ナポリに拠点を構え、今なお家族経営を貫くマーチャント(生地卸商)。コットン生地が有名で、シャツ生地だけでなくスーツ&ジャケット用の生地も手がける。
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『ナポリらしい色彩の美しさはここならではの魅力』
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「ナポリブランドならではの美しい色彩にいつも魅了されます。鮮やかなブルー系で構成されたギンガムチェックは春夏にぴったり」。同生地でのオーダー価格3万6000円~/カスタムテーラー ビームス(ビームス ハウス 丸の内)
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1945年創業。イタリア・コモ湖のほとりに拠点を構え、旧式のシャトル織機を用いた伝統的シャツ生地作りを貫く。“シャツ生地の宝石”と称される名門中の名門。
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『ほかには真似できない絶品の発色と肌触りです』
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「私のお気に入りは『スーパーリーバ』というコットンツイル生地。青の発色といい滑らかな肌触りといい、ここにしかできない絶品のクオリティです」。同生地でのオーダー価格7万円〜/アレッサンドラマンデッリ(ペコラ銀座)
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MONTI / モンティ
1900年代初頭に創業した大規模生地ブランド。高品質な原綿を先端技術による高いフィニッシング技術で仕上げた、上質感の高い生地作りに定評がある。
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『通気性の高い上質ピケがこれからの時期に最適』
──土井縫工所 企画部 土井統治朗さん
「夏にぴったりなシャリ感とハリコシを備えつつ、独特の滑らかさもあるピケ織りをチョイスしました。トレンドカラーのピンクを取り入れた柄もポイントです」。同生地でのオーダー価格1万9000円〜/土井縫工所(土井縫工所)
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ALBINI / アルビニ
1876年創業。世界屈指の規模を誇り、数々の有名生地ブランドを傘下に置いている。近代化された設備による安定した高品質に定評があり、多くのシャツブランドが採用。
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『技術力を物語るマイクロ柄プリントに注目』
──ユナイテッドアローズ プレス 藤原和広さん
「高番手のコットン地にマイクロ柄をプリントした生地。これほど繊細なプリント表現ができるのは技術力が高い証拠です」。同生地でのオーダー価格2万4000円〜/ユナイテッドアローズ(ユナイテッドアローズ 六本木ヒルズ店)
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ALUMO / アルモ
1918年創業。アルプスの奇跡とも称される高級生地メーカーで、高番手のコットンで有名。一流ブランドからの信頼も厚く、クラシック好きに愛好されている。
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『ありそうでない青の発色は合わせやすさも抜群です』
──チッチオジャパン 代表 上木規至さん
「私のお気に入りは170双のツイル。肌触りの良さはもちろん、白糸を混ぜた絶妙な青の発色も魅力です。幅広いスーツと合わせやすいのがいいですね」。同生地でのオーダー価格6万4800円〜/チッチオ(チッチオジャパン )
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THOMAS MASON / トーマス メイソン
1796年創業。こちらも現在はアルビニグループの一員となっている。英国らしい双糸使いによるコットンを中核としつつ、イージーケア性を備えた「ジャーニー」シリーズも展開。
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『Vゾーンを一新するマルチストライプが気分』
──麻布テーラー プレス 篠塚 剛さん
「今季はマルチストライプ柄が気になります。一見個性的ですが、これをクレリックで作れば合わせやすさもアップ。Vゾーンを一新してくれそうです」。同生地でのオーダー価格2万円〜/麻布テーラー(Y&Mプレスルーム)
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DAVID & JOHN ANDERSON / デヴィッド & ジョン アンダーソン
1822年創業。発祥は英国だが、現在はアルビニグループの一員としてイタリアに拠点を置く。最高級原綿ギザ45を使用した高番手生地は世界最高峰と名高い。
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『実は耐久性も備えた200双コットンが出色』
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