世界最高峰のオーダーシャツ「ロンバルディ」を知っているか?

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ロンバルディ
昨年、1983年生まれのシモーネ・ロンバルディに受け継がれたナポリの老舗カミチェリア。10名ほどの職人からなる小規模な工房だが、ナポリでも抜きん出た技術を誇る。納期約6ヶ月〜。手縫い15ヶ所で8万円〜、仮縫いは+1万円(日本橋三越本店)※初回の採寸は常時受付、仮縫いは年3回のトランクショー時に実施

手縫いシャツの聖地ナポリの中でも“至宝”と称えられるのがロンバルディだ。その名品が昨年より、日本で常時オーダー可能に。最高峰の手縫いシャツを求めるなら是非試してほしい。

イタリア最古のカミチェリア「ロンバルディ」を知っているか?
ANTICA CAMICERIA LOMBARDI / アンティカ カミチェリア ロンバルディ

立体的に仕立てる技術は驚異的です

「イタリアには数多くの優れたシャツ職人がいますが、ここの仕立ては別格です」。ロンバルディと20年以上にもわたって家族ぐるみの付き合いを続ける池田氏はこう語る。創業1860年、イタリア最古のカミチェリアとされる同社の真髄は、美しい手縫いだけでなく立体的な仕立てにもあるようだ。

「ロンバルディは世界に先駆けて、ジャケットの仕立て技術をシャツに応用したカミチェリアです。アイロンワークによって生地を曲げたり伸ばしたりしながら立体的な曲線に縫い上げることで、十分なゆとりを持たせつつすっきり見えるというシャツの理想を実現しました。のみならず、体型をより美しく見せることにも成功しています。着比べると、明らかに胸周りが逞しく見えることに気付くはず。これも立体仕立ての賜ですね。私は15枚ほど作りましたが、どれも素晴らしい出来です」。

現在、ロンバルディは日本橋三越本店で常時オーダーを受け付けているが、注目したいのは+1万円で仮縫いをつけられる点だ。スーツやジャケットでは一般的だが、仮縫い付きのシャツというのはかなり珍しい。

体に最も近いシャツこそ仮縫いのメリットは大きく、首の角度や肩傾斜といった微妙な部分のフィット感を格段にアップさせることができるそうだ。

上質を追求するエグゼクティブにこそ味わってもらいたい着心地である。

2024

VOL.341

Spring

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