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特に鹿肉は、信州が誇る熟練の猟師がこだわりを持った方法で処理をした特別なジビエ。急所への一発で仕留めた鹿を、捕獲後すぐに解体処理を現地にて行い、-60℃で急速冷凍することで、クセの元となる臭みを極限まで抑え、鹿肉本来の旨味を引き出している。
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信州の清涼な湧き水や野草といった山の恵みを受けて育った鹿は、脂質の少ないあっさりとした風味ながら、凝縮された濃い旨味を味わうことができる。性別・年齢・部位ごとに異なる五種類の仕立てで味わいの違いを楽しむ「鹿尽くし」として提供。例えば雄鹿は茸と糀を合わせたきのこ醤油糀に漬け込み、炭火で焼き上げる。
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遠赤外線でじんわりと火入れされた雄鹿は噛むたびに、その特徴であるしっかりとした血の旨味を堪能できる一品となっている。さらに鹿の赤身肉の他にも適切に処理のされた雑味のない内臓肉の鹿ハツや鹿レバーも用意。上品かつ野趣あふれる鹿肉のさまざまな表情を味わえる一皿だ。
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強肴には、昨年の献立でも好評だった信州でもあまり出回らない「穴熊」を使用。甘みのある脂が特徴の穴熊を赤ワインで約1日煮込み、脂の甘みが煮汁に溶け出した一品。穴熊に合わせ、信州の伝統保存食である「寒干大根」を昆布出汁で炊き上げて提供。それぞれの特徴を生かし炊き上げた穴熊と寒干大根に、最後の仕上げとしてカウンター席の目の前で熱々の穴熊の脂を回しかけることで、渾然一体となった味わいが楽しめる。
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ジビエを引き立てるための、日本酒やワインのペアリングも。「鹿尽くし」には、鹿肉に相性の良い日本酒「宮坂醸造 真澄 KURO」とワイン「ドメーヌ ソガ サン シミ カベルネソーヴィニヨン ムラサキ第七農場 2020」を用意。鹿肉の五種の仕立てそれぞれと組み合わせて味わうことで、異なるペアリングとして味わいの変化を感じることができる。また、「穴熊と寒干大根香味油」には、果実味と心地よい深みがあるワイン「アロース・コルトン・プルミエ・クリュ」をマリアージュ。
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