京都の竹林で味わう「シェフズ・テーブル」のランチ、五感が目覚める至福の3時間!

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シェフズ・テーブル

ザ・リッツ・カールトン京都で大好評の「シェフズ・テーブル by Katsuhito Inoue」。普段はホテル内の専用の個室「サレッタプリバータ」で楽しむ井上勝人シェフの料理を嵯峨嵐山の竹林で味わう贅沢なランチが、11月に2日間限定で開催された。シェフが大切にする季節感と食材との出合いを表現する「七十二候」を正真正銘の自然の中で堪能した。

嵯峨嵐山の竹林で味わう贅沢なランチ
嵯峨嵐山の竹林

ザ・リッツ・カールトン京都から黒塗りのワゴンに乗っておよそ30分、嵯峨嵐山の竹林の手前でクルマを降りた。午前中の雨が嘘だったかのように晴れ渡った午後、そこから竹林まで歩いた。

幅2mほどの両脇に竹を置いた道は、目当てのシェフズ・テーブルの会場に続く。竹のチップを敷き詰めたやわらかな道の先に、すでに準備を整えた、井上勝人シェフをはじめ調理を補佐するスタッフたちがお出迎え。竹林の隙間から差す光に照らされた井上シェフの顔は、満面の笑みを浮かべていた。

 

ありていだが、非日常の空間。私たち日本人でも竹林で食事をすることはほとんどないが、もし海外から訪ねて来た観光客だったら、涙が出るほど感動しそうだ。

井上勝人シェフをはじめ調理を補佐するスタッフたち

今回、青々とした竹林で満喫するシェフズ・テーブルは、普段、ザ・リッツ・カールトン京都内の専用の個室内での催しを、屋外に運び出したようなもの。ふたつのテーブルにわかれ計6人だけが楽しめる、実にエクスクルーシブなランチである。

ザ・リッツ・カールトン京都内の専用の個室

紅葉したかえでをたっぷりと載せたダイニングテーブルは、自然と一体化したアレンジメント。まさに「秋」をあますところなく演出する。テーブルを飾ったのは、ベテラン庭師の鈴木耕喜さん。料理を盛り付ける器を整えたのも、鈴木さんの技と洗練されたセンスによるものだ。

自然と一体化したアレンジメント
鈴木耕喜さん

メニューの構成は、井上シェフが普段から大切にしている料理哲学を活かす。季節の表現と地元で採れる食材とのマッチング。それに「無駄なく食材を使い切る」という思想が加わる。また、日本の季節を表す「七十二候」が、シェフズ・テーブルの料理構成のテーマである。

竹林
アレンジメント
盛り付け

料理に移ろう。

まず、コンソメスープ。竹筒の上に載せたレモンの葉を手で揉み、匂いを楽しんでからひと口。軽い口当たりだが、キノコのエキスを抽出した滋味深い味わい。少し気温が低くなった野外で味わう温かいスープは、身体の隅々まで染みわたり、ほっとする。

次に、琵琶湖で採れた子持ち鮎のマンテカート。ポレンタを添えたスプーンで、ひと口でいただく。鼻に抜ける風味がなんともいい香りだ。

次は、ムール貝の直火焼き。岩塩の上に綺麗に並べられたムール貝の上に、竹の葉を載せて焼き上げたひと品。黒スミを加えたシューにルッコラ、ムール貝、ムール貝のピューレをはさむ。

ムール貝

続いて、近江牛三角バラの包み焼。ひと口サイズにカットされた肉の上に、少量のホースラディッシュ。食べ方は、骨の形をした器の両端を持ち、肉をガブリ。なんだが原始的な気分にさせられる。

次は、季節の野菜のバーニャカウダ。松茸、タケノコ、赤カブ……、アクセントに生ハムや熊の脂身を、竹のなかで蒸した料理。イタリアのバーニャカウダなら、アンチョビとニンニクを使ったソースを添えるが、鮒鮨を素材にしたソースでいただく。適度な酸味が爽やかな味覚となる。

そして、マナガツオのカルトッチョ、鴨のローストと続き、モクズガニのリゾットへ。

モクズガニの身をほぐして米と炊く。本来、酒米として使う祝米を素材にしたため、短粒種ならではの、コツコツとしたアルデンテを味わえた。ほどなくして、一杯お代わり。今度は米の中までカニの味噌とエキスが浸透し、随分と贅沢なおじやに変化。このうえなく、滑らかな舌触りだった。

薪の香り

料理を食している間、その横で大胆に薪を燃やして調理する。立ち上る煙の香りが、ほのかな調味料となるのも、竹林での醍醐味だ。

2024

VOL.342

Summer

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