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ドレス感の高い「シングル」
最もシンプルな裾仕上げが「シングル」。フォーマルウェアのパンツにも使用されるだけあり、3種類中で最もドレス感の高い見た目となる。通常、コットンパンツにはあまり用いない仕上げだが、生地が厚いコーデュロイの場合、裾をすっきりと見せるためにシングルを用いることも。プリーツとセンタークリースがしっかり入った細身のパンツなど、テーラードな仕立てのものと好相性だ。コーデュロイスーツの組下にも◎。
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カジュアルな雰囲気の「タタキ」
5ポケットパンツやチノパンの仕上げとしてお馴染みなのがこちら。シングルと似ているが、こちらはステッチが入るぶんカジュアルな印象に見えるのがポイント。コーデュロイの場合も、最も無難な仕上げといえる。お洒落にこだわりのある人は、タタキの幅(裾から何センチのところにステッチを入れるか)を細かく指定する場合も。標準的なタタキ幅は2.5cm程度だが、これを広くするとややカジュアルな見た目となる。
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きちんと感が上がる「ダブル」
スーツやウールパンツにおいてはスタンダードな「ダブル」。歴史的にはシングルに比べるとスポーティな仕上げとされるが、現代の目線で見ると“きちんと感”の高い印象となる。生地に厚みのあるコーデュロイパンツの場合、裾がボッテリ見えるとして昔はNGといわれていた。しかし昨今はアクセントとしてダブルをあえて選択するケースも増えてきている。ダブルの幅はドレスパンツと同様、3.5~4.5cmが標準。
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シングルは足元がすっきり見える
ドレス感の高いシングル仕上げは、着用時の雰囲気もすっきりとミニマルに。こちらのような細身のパンツと好相性だ。1点注意としては、パンツ丈とのバランス。シングルで丈が長すぎると、ややだらしない印象に見えてしまう危険がある。ソックスが覗くくらいの短め丈に設定するといいバランスだ。
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タタキ仕上げはベーシックな印象
最もスタンダードなタタキ仕上げの場合、着用時の印象もベーシックに。写真のようなワイドパンツにも合うし、もちろん細身のパンツにもOKだ。個性的ではないが、どの仕上げにするか迷ったらタタキを選んでおけば間違いないだろう。
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ダブルにすると裾のボリューム感がアップ
裾部分が二重になるダブル仕上げは、やはり裾がボリューミーに見える。そのぶん目を引く印象だが、ボテっと見えないよう注意が必要。裾幅の太いパンツを選び、裾をやや短めにしたりするとメリハリがついてバランスがよい。
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