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1. カルテ入力
オーバーホールの前に、対象となる時計ごとに個別のカルテを作成。過去にオーバーホールや修理をしている場合は、その履歴を参照しつつメニューを組み立てる。
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2. コンディションチェック
外装の状態や動作状況、写真にある加圧機による防水チェックなどを実施。この際、オーバーホールだけでは済まない故障が発覚すると見積もりとともに依頼者へ連絡。
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string(30) "c_watch_220829_begin4_pg03.jpg"
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3. 分解
ケースからムーブメントを取り出し、分解の準備をする。針を外すときはダイヤル等にキズが付かぬようビニールを被せつつ慎重に。神経を使う繊細な作業のひとつだ。
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4. クリーニング①
バラしたムーブメントのパーツは、細かいネジも含めすべて専用の洗浄カゴに投入。パーツの役割や場所に応じて分別。各オーバーホールに1人の技術者が専任で担当。
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5. クリーニング②
各パーツを入れた洗浄カゴは専用の超音波洗浄器にて自動洗浄。特殊な洗浄液と超音波によるダブル洗浄により、劣化油分やこびりついた金属粉などの汚れを一掃。
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6. クリーニング③
超音波洗浄器には3つの洗浄槽があり、パーツは3段階で洗浄され、自動で乾燥される。すすぎで用いられた溶液が一切残らぬように窪みまで完全に乾かすことが肝心。
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7. 注油
パーツの組み立てに入る前に穴石などにオイルを施す。その際用いるのは専用のインジェクター。1プッシュで適切な量のオイルが噴出するよう、調整がなされている。
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8. 振れ取り
時計精度を左右するテンプとひげゼンマイをここで調整。専用工具で挟み込み、ピンセットでテンプのバランスを手直しし、ひげゼンマイの1/100mmの歪みも修正。
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string(30) "c_watch_220829_begin4_pg09.jpg"
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9. 組み立て①
洗浄を終え適切な注油を施した各パーツを、元通りに組んでいく。その作業の最後には、振れ取りしたテンプが組み込まれる。ここの作業もかなりの慎重さが必要。
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string(30) "c_watch_220829_begin4_pg10.jpg"
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int(163464)
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string(5) "image"
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string(4) "jpeg"
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10. 組み立て②
テンプをムーブメントに組み込む際、ひげゼンマイに微妙な偏りが生じることがある。その具合をチェックし、偏りや不具合があればピンセットを使って補正する。
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string(30) "c_watch_220829_begin4_pg11.jpg"
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int(175415)
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string(5) "image"
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string(4) "jpeg"
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string(62) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-includes/images/media/default.png"
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int(452)
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int(150)
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string(91) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/c_watch_220829_begin4_pg11-300x181.jpg"
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int(181)
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string(83) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/c_watch_220829_begin4_pg11.jpg"
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int(452)
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string(83) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/c_watch_220829_begin4_pg11.jpg"
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11. 歩度調整
ムーブメントをケースに収める前にムーブ単体での6姿勢での歩度チェックを行う。GSの規定であるムーブ単位での平均日差‒3~+5秒に収まるまで調整する。
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string(5) "image"
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string(4) "jpeg"
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int(150)
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string(91) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/c_watch_220829_begin4_pg12-300x181.jpg"
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int(181)
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int(452)
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string(83) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/c_watch_220829_begin4_pg12.jpg"
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12. 針付け
ムーブメントに文字盤を固定し針を取り付ける。日常使用等で針が外れず、しかし食い込みすぎない力加減が重要。この針付けの後、再び歩度をチェックし調整する。
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string(30) "c_watch_220829_begin4_pg13.jpg"
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string(19) "2022-08-24 05:43:13"
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int(452)
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int(150)
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string(91) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/c_watch_220829_begin4_pg13-300x181.jpg"
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int(181)
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13. ケースバフ研磨
GSのコンプリートサービスならではと言える外装のライトポリッシュ工程。回転するバフにケースを当てて全体の艶を回復させる。浅いキズなどはこの作業で取り除く。
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14. ケース筋目加工
ケースの仕上げの意匠である筋目仕上げも再度直す。金属棒に専用の紙ヤスリを取り付け、手作業加工して筋目を入れる。金属棒は各職人が使いやすいよう自作するとか。
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15. ベゼルザラツ研磨
ケースにおいて最も目に付く箇所であるガラス縁=ベゼルは、特別にザラツ研磨をかけ直す。回転する円盤に貼り付けたラッピングペーパーで丁寧に磨き上げる。
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16. ベゼルバフ研磨
ザラツ研磨を掛け直したベゼルは、最終の仕上げとして再びバフ研磨。機械のみならず外装においても最高峰を目指すGS。オーバーホールでその美しさまで蘇らせる。
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17. バンド研磨
ブレスレット仕様のGSはブレス部分も仕上げ加工をし直す。ブレスレットは筋目と鏡面が混在するため、マスキングテープで保護しつつ、それぞれの加工を行っていく。
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18. ケーシング①
組み上げたムーブメントを磨き直したケースに組み込むケーシング工程。ブレスレットを取り付け後、サファイアクリスタル風防をはめ込んだベゼルをケースにセット。
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19. パッキン交換
ケーシングする際には、裏蓋やリューズ等に仕込むすべてのパッキンを新品に交換。この作業で規定の防水性が確保され、湿気やホコリもシャットアウトされるのだ。
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20. グリース塗布
頻繁に強い力が掛かるリューズには、粘性の高い専用シリコン系グリースが塗布される。穴石への注油と同様に、抽出量を調整した専用のインジェクターを使って塗布。
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21. 精度チェック
裏蓋を仮締めして、最終的な精度チェックを行う。実際の装着時に近づけるため、6姿勢にて日差-1~+10秒の精度が保てるか、専用機械にて検査していく。
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22. ケーシング②
精度や持続時間などを規定値内に調整し終えた後、裏蓋を本締めする。この時点でパッキンは交換済み。緩みから湿気が浸入しないよう規定のトルクでしっかり締めつける。
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23. 防水テスト①
ケーシング工程を終えたら、まずはエアー加圧によって気密状態をチェックする。時計を密閉して加圧。時計ケースのひずみを検知することで、気密状態が確認できる。
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24. 防水テスト②
気圧チェックに続き、時計を実際に水中に入れて防水性を検査。規定の水圧まで加圧し一定時間放置。取り出して水の浸入があった場合は、分解して再度やり直す。
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string(5) "image"
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string(4) "jpeg"
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int(150)
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25. 防水テスト③
時計を発熱板の上に平置きして60℃まで加熱する。スポイトでガラス面に水を垂らししばらく放置。ガラス内部がわずかでも曇った場合、防水不良と判断される。
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string(4) "jpeg"
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int(150)
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int(181)
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26. 乾燥
防水チェックを異なる3工程にわたり行うのは、湿気が時計の大敵だから。完璧な防水で時計は長寿命を得ることができる。テスト後は水分を拭き取って乾燥。
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string(91) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/c_watch_220829_begin4_pg27-300x181.jpg"
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27. 仕上がりチェック
検査のプロが拡大鏡を使って最終チェックを行う。外装のキズやリューズの動作具合、針の位置ズレを調べるなど、細部にわたって仕上がりの程度をチェックしていく。
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28. 報告書作成
時計をオーナーに返却する際に同封される報告書を作成。外装、バンド、ムーブメントの3つに対し、細かなチェック項目が存在し、修理や処置内容を細かく記載。
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}
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string(66) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/archives/1237717/c_watch_220829_begin4_pg29"
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29. データ登録
詳細な修理内容などをパソコンに入力し、時計ごとのデータの保存とアップデート。履歴は次回の修理やオーバーホールに持ち込まれた際の参考資料となる。
"
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