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上襟と下襟が接する部分の縫い線のこと。立ち襟の頃の名残。ゴージラインが低いと、よりクラシックな印象になる。
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ラペル裏側にあり、フラワーホールの下についているループ。元々はラペルに挿した切り花の茎を止めるためのもの。
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上襟の部分が首のカーブに沿って美しく上方に登っていくさま。アイロンワークによるクセ付けによって、形成がされる。
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首元のラインに合わせて、かぶせるようにしてつけた、後付けの襟のこと。丁寧な仕立ての高級服に多く見られる仕様だ。
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フロントダーツ
ポケットからバストトップにかけて入れられた、身頃のシェイプや立体感を出すために入れられた縫い目のこと。
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本切羽
袖口に切り込みがあり、袖ボタンの開閉ができるよう(本開き)になっている袖口。ハンドメイドの代名詞的ディテール。
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マニカカミーチャ
ナポリ仕立て服によく見られる仕様で、イタリア語で「シャツ袖」の意味。袖山に特有の縦線が生まれる。雨降らしとも。
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ウェルトポケット
ジャケットの胸ポケットの代表的な意匠。ふち飾りの細長い当て布(ウェルト)をつけたことが名前の由来と言われる。
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バルカポケット
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コバステッチ
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AMFステッチ
主にフロント周りに入れられた、手縫い風の味わいがある装飾ステッチのこと。AMFとはミシンを開発した会社の名前。
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お台場仕立て
ジャケットの裏地のポケットの周りを表地が囲んでいる仕様。お台場(砲台)の形に似ていたことが名前の由来。
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大見返し
表地を大きくとりまわし裏地とした仕様。特に裏地をとらない一枚仕立ての場合や、軽く仕上げるときに用いられる。
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ポケットの端などに施される綻び防止の止め縫いの一種。アルファベットのDの形をしていることからこの名がついた。
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前肩
人間の身体に自然と沿うように、肩部分を前方に押し出した設計のもの。日本人には前肩が多いと言われる。
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まっすぐ垂直に開けられたパンツのサイドポケットのことを指す。ポケットが目立ちにくく、ドレッシーな雰囲気となる。
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スランテッドポケット
斜めに切られたパンツのサイドポケットのこと。手が入れやすく、既製品のパンツはほぼこのデザインとなっている。
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マーベルト
パンツの腰裏に使用される帯のこと。シャツを押さえて、穿き心地を落ち着かせる役割がある。ラバー素材のものも多い。
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シック
英語で“厚い”の意。パンツの中で最も縫い代が集中している内側のあたりにつける、補強布のことを指す。
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パンチェリーナ
パンツのウエストを内部から固定するために付いている持ち出し部分のことを指す。ビスポークスーツによく見られる仕様だ。
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string(73) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/ME2108_p61_sub22.jpg"
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string(73) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/ME2108_p61_sub22.jpg"
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int(852)
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}
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string(202) "
フォブポケット
パンツの前部右腰につく小さなポケット。ウォッチポケットとも称され、古くは懐中時計を入れるためのものだった。
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}
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int(1205925)
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string(20) "ME2108_p61_sub23.jpg"
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int(115092)
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string(73) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/ME2108_p61_sub23.jpg"
["link"]=>
string(56) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/archives/1205897/me2108_p61_sub23"
["alt"]=>
string(38) "ディテール用語集_Vスリット"
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string(2) "37"
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string(0) ""
["caption"]=>
string(0) ""
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string(7) "inherit"
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int(1205897)
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string(19) "2021-07-08 09:11:01"
["modified"]=>
string(19) "2021-07-08 09:15:23"
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int(0)
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string(10) "image/jpeg"
["type"]=>
string(5) "image"
["subtype"]=>
string(4) "jpeg"
["icon"]=>
string(62) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-includes/images/media/default.png"
["width"]=>
int(750)
["height"]=>
int(852)
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array(18) {
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string(81) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/ME2108_p61_sub23-150x150.jpg"
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["thumbnail-height"]=>
int(150)
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string(81) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/ME2108_p61_sub23-264x300.jpg"
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int(300)
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string(73) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/ME2108_p61_sub23.jpg"
["medium_large-width"]=>
int(750)
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int(852)
["large"]=>
string(73) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/ME2108_p61_sub23.jpg"
["large-width"]=>
int(750)
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int(852)
["1536x1536"]=>
string(73) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/ME2108_p61_sub23.jpg"
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int(852)
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string(73) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/ME2108_p61_sub23.jpg"
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int(852)
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}
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string(191) "
Vスリット
ウエスマンの後ろ部分に入った切り込みのこと。パンツの生地にかかる圧力を逃がし、強度を保つと言われている。
"
}
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array(2) {
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int(1205926)
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string(20) "ME2108_p61_sub24.jpg"
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int(114971)
["url"]=>
string(73) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/ME2108_p61_sub24.jpg"
["link"]=>
string(56) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/archives/1205897/me2108_p61_sub24"
["alt"]=>
string(37) "ディテール用語集_持ち出し"
["author"]=>
string(2) "37"
["description"]=>
string(0) ""
["caption"]=>
string(0) ""
["name"]=>
string(16) "me2108_p61_sub24"
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string(7) "inherit"
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int(1205897)
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string(19) "2021-07-08 09:11:01"
["modified"]=>
string(19) "2021-07-08 09:15:29"
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int(0)
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string(10) "image/jpeg"
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string(5) "image"
["subtype"]=>
string(4) "jpeg"
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string(62) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-includes/images/media/default.png"
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int(750)
["height"]=>
int(852)
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array(18) {
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string(81) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/ME2108_p61_sub24-150x150.jpg"
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int(150)
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string(81) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/ME2108_p61_sub24-264x300.jpg"
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int(264)
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int(300)
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string(73) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/ME2108_p61_sub24.jpg"
["medium_large-width"]=>
int(750)
["medium_large-height"]=>
int(852)
["large"]=>
string(73) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/ME2108_p61_sub24.jpg"
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int(750)
["large-height"]=>
int(852)
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string(73) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/ME2108_p61_sub24.jpg"
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int(750)
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int(852)
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string(73) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/ME2108_p61_sub24.jpg"
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}
["entry_gallery_description"]=>
string(190) "
持ち出し
パンツの前開きの部分から伸びている、重ね部分のことを指す。「天狗」、「鳥」、「棒」など、様々な形がある。
"
}
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int(1205927)
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int(1205927)
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string(20) "ME2108_p61_sub25.jpg"
["filesize"]=>
int(128420)
["url"]=>
string(73) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/ME2108_p61_sub25.jpg"
["link"]=>
string(56) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/archives/1205897/me2108_p61_sub25"
["alt"]=>
string(46) "ディテール用語集_バックルループ"
["author"]=>
string(2) "37"
["description"]=>
string(0) ""
["caption"]=>
string(0) ""
["name"]=>
string(16) "me2108_p61_sub25"
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string(7) "inherit"
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int(1205897)
["date"]=>
string(19) "2021-07-08 09:11:02"
["modified"]=>
string(19) "2021-07-08 09:15:36"
["menu_order"]=>
int(0)
["mime_type"]=>
string(10) "image/jpeg"
["type"]=>
string(5) "image"
["subtype"]=>
string(4) "jpeg"
["icon"]=>
string(62) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-includes/images/media/default.png"
["width"]=>
int(750)
["height"]=>
int(852)
["sizes"]=>
array(18) {
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string(81) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/ME2108_p61_sub25-150x150.jpg"
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int(150)
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string(81) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/ME2108_p61_sub25-264x300.jpg"
["medium-width"]=>
int(264)
["medium-height"]=>
int(300)
["medium_large"]=>
string(73) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/ME2108_p61_sub25.jpg"
["medium_large-width"]=>
int(750)
["medium_large-height"]=>
int(852)
["large"]=>
string(73) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/ME2108_p61_sub25.jpg"
["large-width"]=>
int(750)
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int(852)
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string(73) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/ME2108_p61_sub25.jpg"
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}
["entry_gallery_description"]=>
string(208) "
バックルループ
パンツの前部分についた小さなループ。ベルトのバックルのピンを通し、バックルの位置がずれるのを防ぐ役割りがある。
"
}
}