超絶手縫いシャツ「ハンドレッドハンズ」の魅力を、編集長が実際に着て検証!

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オーダーした時に届く箱はこんな感じ。シックな黒地に「100HANDS」のロゴがあしらわれる。

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ご覧の通り、なんとも美しい佇まいのオーダーシャツ。「いいシャツは、置いたときの顔をチェックせよ」とよく言われるが、ハンドの超絶技巧によるその精巧な作りはどのようにして生まれるのか……?

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ブランドのルーツは1860年にインドで創業したテキスタイルメーカー。1998年にはシャツ工房を構え、ハイエンドシャツファクトリーとして成長していった。

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その優れた品質が話題となり、サヴィル・ロウやパリの超一流テーラーからビスポークシャツの生産を依頼されるように。

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そして2014年、6代目のアクシャットと妻バルバラが自社のブランドとして立ち上げたのがハンドレッドハンズだ。

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本社は夫妻が住むオランダ・アムステルダムに、生産拠点はブランドの起源であるインドの工房に置いているのが特徴。

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現在、工房には約50人の熟練職人が勤務し、伝統的なハンドメイドを貫いている。

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シャツの着心地を左右する肩線や袖付け。もちろん手縫いで丁寧に仕上げられている。袖山がふんわりと丸みを帯びていて、貴族的な印象。

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1インチあたり25針という、非常に精密なピッチ。手縫いでここまで精巧なのはイタリアでも珍しい。

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剣ボロなど細部まで手縫いを贅沢に採用。

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裾の巻き縫いやガゼットも手縫い。巻きが大変細いのも特徴的で、クオリティの高さを物語っている。

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ひとつボタンホールを手縫いするのに45分もの時間をかけているという。

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こちらは平澤がオーダーしたカジュアルシャツ。

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BDシャツは、襟のロールが綺麗で柄合わせも完璧だ。

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肩周りの柄合わせもバッチリ。

" } [15]=> array(2) { ["entry_gallery_image"]=> array(24) { ["ID"]=> int(1134281) ["id"]=> int(1134281) ["title"]=> string(28) "fashion_191224_100hands_pg17" ["filename"]=> string(32) "fashion_191224_100hands_pg17.jpg" ["filesize"]=> int(267447) ["url"]=> string(85) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/fashion_191224_100hands_pg17.jpg" ["link"]=> string(68) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/archives/1134213/fashion_191224_100hands_pg17" ["alt"]=> string(0) "" ["author"]=> string(2) "22" ["description"]=> string(0) "" ["caption"]=> string(0) "" ["name"]=> string(28) "fashion_191224_100hands_pg17" ["status"]=> string(7) "inherit" ["uploaded_to"]=> int(1134213) ["date"]=> string(19) "2019-12-24 09:49:17" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2019-12-24 09:49:17" ["menu_order"]=> int(0) ["mime_type"]=> string(10) "image/jpeg" ["type"]=> string(5) "image" ["subtype"]=> string(4) "jpeg" ["icon"]=> string(62) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-includes/images/media/default.png" ["width"]=> int(750) ["height"]=> int(852) ["sizes"]=> array(18) { ["thumbnail"]=> string(85) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/fashion_191224_100hands_pg17.jpg" ["thumbnail-width"]=> int(132) ["thumbnail-height"]=> int(150) ["medium"]=> string(85) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/fashion_191224_100hands_pg17.jpg" ["medium-width"]=> int(264) ["medium-height"]=> int(300) ["medium_large"]=> string(85) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/fashion_191224_100hands_pg17.jpg" ["medium_large-width"]=> int(750) ["medium_large-height"]=> int(852) ["large"]=> string(85) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/fashion_191224_100hands_pg17.jpg" ["large-width"]=> int(750) ["large-height"]=> int(852) ["1536x1536"]=> string(85) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/fashion_191224_100hands_pg17.jpg" ["1536x1536-width"]=> int(750) ["1536x1536-height"]=> int(852) ["2048x2048"]=> string(85) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/fashion_191224_100hands_pg17.jpg" ["2048x2048-width"]=> int(750) ["2048x2048-height"]=> int(852) } } ["entry_gallery_description"]=> string(116) "

レディスのシャツは、背中部分はダーツを深めに取ってエレガントな雰囲気に。

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着用してみると、こんな感じ。襟羽根がきれいに見頃に吸い付いてジャケットを脱いだときにも美しい佇まい。

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肩のギャザーは多すぎず少なすぎず、の絶妙バランス。

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ヨーク部分にも、少しずつギャザーを取っているので背中の可動域も◎。

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メンズのシャツも、背面には適度にダーツを入れてシャープな雰囲気に。

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こちらは平澤が過去にオーダーしたドレスシャツ。こうした逆抜きストライプのシャツ地だと、白糸の細やかなハンドステッチ具合がよく分かる。

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台襟部分も、第一ボタンに向けてほのかに上り気味のカーブ。これによりボタンを開けたときも美しい胸元に。

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裾の巻き縫いやサイドの縫いも超絶に細いが美しいハンドステッチがお見事。ガゼットは小さめにしているのが特徴。

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オーダーの場合は、台襟の内側部分にイニシャルを入れたりすることも出来る。

" } }
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ハンドレッドハンズ

【Shirts Talk 2020 #02】100 HANDS

日頃からスーツやジャケットスタイル中心のため、ドレスシャツからカジュアルシャツまで大のシャツ好き! MEN’S EX ONLINE編集長の平澤がオーダーシャツや既製シャツを実際に作った&着てみたインプレッション企画【Shirts Talk 2020】がスタート。毎回ブランド愛用者を1人、ゲストに迎えてシャツについて思う存分トークしていきます。

100hands
ハンドレッドハンズは、ピッティ・ウォモ期間中にフィレンツェにて展示会を開催することが多い。平澤は毎回欠かさず展示会にて新作をチェック。左はインド出身のアクシャット、右はロシア出身のバルバラ。夫婦がオランダで出会い、ハンドレッドハンズのシャツは誕生したのだ。

そんな「Shirts Talk」2回目に登場するのは、イタリアやイギリスのブランドが大勢を占めるドレスシャツ業界の中で、昨今世界的な大躍進を遂げているのがオランダ・アムステルダム発の「ハンドレッドハンズ」だ。その名のとおり各工程にこれでもかと手技を用いた贅沢なシャツ作りが最大の特色だが、はたしてイタリア&イギリスのシャツとの違いはどのようなところにあるのだろうか? 実際にオーダー経験のある2名で徹底検証してみた!

<p>オーダーした時に届く箱はこんな感じ。シックな黒地に「100HANDS」のロゴがあしらわれる。</p>

オーダーした時に届く箱はこんな感じ。シックな黒地に「100HANDS」のロゴがあしらわれる。

<p>ご覧の通り、なんとも美しい佇まいのオーダーシャツ。「いいシャツは、置いたときの顔をチェックせよ」とよく言われるが、ハンドの超絶技巧によるその精巧な作りはどのようにして生まれるのか……?</p>

ご覧の通り、なんとも美しい佇まいのオーダーシャツ。「いいシャツは、置いたときの顔をチェックせよ」とよく言われるが、ハンドの超絶技巧によるその精巧な作りはどのようにして生まれるのか……?

<p>ブランドのルーツは1860年にインドで創業したテキスタイルメーカー。1998年にはシャツ工房を構え、ハイエンドシャツファクトリーとして成長していった。</p>

ブランドのルーツは1860年にインドで創業したテキスタイルメーカー。1998年にはシャツ工房を構え、ハイエンドシャツファクトリーとして成長していった。

<p>その優れた品質が話題となり、サヴィル・ロウやパリの超一流テーラーからビスポークシャツの生産を依頼されるように。</p>

その優れた品質が話題となり、サヴィル・ロウやパリの超一流テーラーからビスポークシャツの生産を依頼されるように。

<p>そして2014年、6代目のアクシャットと妻バルバラが自社のブランドとして立ち上げたのがハンドレッドハンズだ。</p>

そして2014年、6代目のアクシャットと妻バルバラが自社のブランドとして立ち上げたのがハンドレッドハンズだ。

<p>本社は夫妻が住むオランダ・アムステルダムに、生産拠点はブランドの起源であるインドの工房に置いているのが特徴。</p>

本社は夫妻が住むオランダ・アムステルダムに、生産拠点はブランドの起源であるインドの工房に置いているのが特徴。

<p>現在、工房には約50人の熟練職人が勤務し、伝統的なハンドメイドを貫いている。</p>

現在、工房には約50人の熟練職人が勤務し、伝統的なハンドメイドを貫いている。

<p>シャツの着心地を左右する肩線や袖付け。もちろん手縫いで丁寧に仕上げられている。袖山がふんわりと丸みを帯びていて、貴族的な印象。</p>

シャツの着心地を左右する肩線や袖付け。もちろん手縫いで丁寧に仕上げられている。袖山がふんわりと丸みを帯びていて、貴族的な印象。

<p>1インチあたり25針という、非常に精密なピッチ。手縫いでここまで精巧なのはイタリアでも珍しい。</p>

1インチあたり25針という、非常に精密なピッチ。手縫いでここまで精巧なのはイタリアでも珍しい。

<p>剣ボロなど細部まで手縫いを贅沢に採用。</p>

剣ボロなど細部まで手縫いを贅沢に採用。

<p>裾の巻き縫いやガゼットも手縫い。巻きが大変細いのも特徴的で、クオリティの高さを物語っている。</p>

裾の巻き縫いやガゼットも手縫い。巻きが大変細いのも特徴的で、クオリティの高さを物語っている。

<p>ひとつボタンホールを手縫いするのに45分もの時間をかけているという。</p>

ひとつボタンホールを手縫いするのに45分もの時間をかけているという。

<p>こちらは平澤がオーダーしたカジュアルシャツ。</p>

こちらは平澤がオーダーしたカジュアルシャツ。

<p>BDシャツは、襟のロールが綺麗で柄合わせも完璧だ。</p>

BDシャツは、襟のロールが綺麗で柄合わせも完璧だ。

<p>肩周りの柄合わせもバッチリ。</p>

肩周りの柄合わせもバッチリ。

<p>レディスのシャツは、背中部分はダーツを深めに取ってエレガントな雰囲気に。</p>

レディスのシャツは、背中部分はダーツを深めに取ってエレガントな雰囲気に。

<p>着用してみると、こんな感じ。襟羽根がきれいに見頃に吸い付いてジャケットを脱いだときにも美しい佇まい。</p>

着用してみると、こんな感じ。襟羽根がきれいに見頃に吸い付いてジャケットを脱いだときにも美しい佇まい。

<p>肩のギャザーは多すぎず少なすぎず、の絶妙バランス。</p>

肩のギャザーは多すぎず少なすぎず、の絶妙バランス。

<p>ヨーク部分にも、少しずつギャザーを取っているので背中の可動域も◎。</p>

ヨーク部分にも、少しずつギャザーを取っているので背中の可動域も◎。

<p>メンズのシャツも、背面には適度にダーツを入れてシャープな雰囲気に。</p>

メンズのシャツも、背面には適度にダーツを入れてシャープな雰囲気に。

<p>こちらは平澤が過去にオーダーしたドレスシャツ。こうした逆抜きストライプのシャツ地だと、白糸の細やかなハンドステッチ具合がよく分かる。</p>

こちらは平澤が過去にオーダーしたドレスシャツ。こうした逆抜きストライプのシャツ地だと、白糸の細やかなハンドステッチ具合がよく分かる。

<p>台襟部分も、第一ボタンに向けてほのかに上り気味のカーブ。これによりボタンを開けたときも美しい胸元に。</p>

台襟部分も、第一ボタンに向けてほのかに上り気味のカーブ。これによりボタンを開けたときも美しい胸元に。

<p>裾の巻き縫いやサイドの縫いも超絶に細いが美しいハンドステッチがお見事。ガゼットは小さめにしているのが特徴。</p>

裾の巻き縫いやサイドの縫いも超絶に細いが美しいハンドステッチがお見事。ガゼットは小さめにしているのが特徴。

<p>オーダーの場合は、台襟の内側部分にイニシャルを入れたりすることも出来る。</p>

オーダーの場合は、台襟の内側部分にイニシャルを入れたりすることも出来る。

2024

VOL.341

Spring

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